The Shunju chain of restaurants was recommended while I was searching for a destination for a fancy multi-course dinner below my 10,000 yen budget. I arrived early at the Mishuku branch in Shibuya and was given a spacious counter seat in front of the sashimi station with the head chef working in front of me. They had an English menu from which I selected the 8,000 yen set dinner.
The first course was a selection of seasonal vegetables and salads arranged on a large basket – sort of a salad bar that was brought your side. I didn’t think much of it at first and only picked little sampling of each. Damn, was I mistaken! The cabbage, simply washed and cut, was crunchy and full of natural sugars. Also noteworthy were the boiled spinach which was tender yet not overcooked at all and the sweet potatoes which tasted like candies. Luckily I managed to convey the message to the waiter that I would like to have a second helping of the course which they gladly obliged.
Next was a sashimi platter with Chu Toro, Kampachi, Tako (Octopus), Tai (Snapper) and fresh wasabi. On the side of the Tako are pieces of suckers that had an interesting texture. The Tai, known as King of Snapper, was in its winter prime with the flavourful fleshing tasting almost milky and the Chu Toro, which I suspect was lightly cured on Konbu, was unctuous and buttery.
The third course combined a piece of deep fried Anglerfish liver and Daikon in a Yuzu soy broth. The rich and slightly powdery liver was perfectly matched by the sweet and juicy radish with the broth binding both elements with the fragrance of Yuzu.
Charcoal grilled duck, which was the main meat course was the only let down of the meal. The duck, which was imported, was cooked appropriately rare but retained an unpleasing livery taste.
The final savoury course was oyster rice cooked with broth in a tradition cast iron pot. Much like a claypot, this method enabled the bottom layer of rice to char a little and add an extra dimension to the already flavourful rice.
Dessert was a pear sorbet with pear jelly.
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