Paris: Chez l'Ami Jean - Round 2

After my first meal at Chez l’Ami Jean 2 months earlier which left me pining for more, I returned for a second round on the last leg of my epic trip before flying home. With Max and Jia Le held up at the airport, our dining party was reduced to a man date between Desmond and me. C’est dommage!

This time, I was determined to have the complete Carte Blanche instead of the reduced menu we had last time. Walking in for the dead last seating at 9.30pm, and we were starving and ready.

We began with a mushroom soup – an intense earthy stock was enriched minimally with cream then frothed - quite similar in mouthfeel to the fish bisque we had previously. Bits of crisp bacon and fresh peas provided crunchiness and truffle oil upped the aroma factor, lifting an often abused classic preparation to the echelons of fine dining.

The next course was a repeat of the last meal – a clay crock of baby scallops steamed in its own juices with butter and plenty of chives. The scallops themselves were frankly quite bland and mild. The best part of dish was the sweet broth collected at the bottom of the crock which I liberally soaked up with bread. I was therefore quite mad when the crock was abruptly removed while I was floundering in my head to find the French to ask the waitress to leave it there!

Any remnants of displeasure vanished when the second fish course arrived. A whole tail of Brittany lobster braised in butter paired with a wedge of caramelized peach. The firmness and sweetness of the blue Homard lobster is far superior to the “live” lobsters we get imported here in Singapore. The fruity peach and briny lobster would have been brilliantly paired with a slice of foie gras. I would attempt that soon!

Through the night, we saw many tables end their savoury courses with a generous but manageable half rack of lamb. We were expecting the same as we watched the action in the kitchen when from the corner of my eye I spotted a massive Cote de Boeuf being brought out. Instinctively, I craned by neck to search for the lucky quartet it was heading for only to have my vision suddenly all blocked out by a crusty slab of ribeye. Queried by our Audrey Tatou lookalike waitress, “Ça va?”, we could only nod dumbly in speechless shock. Yes, that 1 kilogramme Wagyu ribeye steak was for us to share. Quickly, it was whisked away, carved and returned on a bed of sautéed Girolles and braised baby turnips then sprinkled with parsley breadcrumbs. The steak was seared rare (we were not asked for our preferences). It was quite tasty, almost bordering on sweet and rich without being overly fatty - I guess that the beef came from a hybrid Wagyu cow. The use of breadcrumbs here was a genius touch. When coupled with the beef, it somehow gave the illusion of a more substantial and crunchy outer crust. There was enough for 3 servings each as well as the bone in a doggy bag. 

Just as we felt ready to die from a burst stomach, Chez l’Ami Jean’s famous rice pudding was served. Much have been written on this dessert and it was truly as good as people claim. To quote FoodSnob, “A big, big bowl of pearly white rice pudding (also like grandmother made) with swirls of confiture de lait... The riz was velvety and smooth; strong enough to hold a wooden spoon upright, but not sticky. The bomba rice – a Valencian, premium-quality short grain, quite starchy and considered the best sort for paella – was an inspired choice. The fat grains were firm and distinct, but had just started to melt around the edges, exaggerating the riz au lait’s creaminess… easily the best rice pudding I have ever eaten.” We barely made a dent in the huge bowl.

We were also served 2 mini-desserts – a chocolate mousse with cinnamon cracker as well as a bowl of marinated persimmons.

In all, the execution at Chez l’Ami Jean was flawless and its serving more than generous but it would not be unfair to say that the Carte Blanche was rather safe and conventional. Perhaps we arrived too late for dinner and ingredients were running low and/or they deliberately do a less adventurous menu for international tourists. To illustrate what Chef Jégo is capable of, take a look at Barbara Austin’s review on her blog – veal and salmon, foie gras and cod, lobster and boudin noir etc. When I return I have to find a way to convey my willingness to try their more creative offerings.